Dover Street Market, a titan in avant-garde retail, has just made a significant foray into its own fashion label, a venture marking a new chapter in its storied history. This innovative collection, helmed by the esteemed designer Kei Ninomiya, known for his Noir creations, channels the essence of academic institutions, presenting a unified vision for the global DSM community. The initiative not only expands DSM's brand identity but also introduces its distinctive aesthetic to new territories through an expanded distribution model.
In a groundbreaking move, Dover Street Market has unveiled its debut in-house fashion collection, a significant milestone for the influential retailer. The creative direction for this fresh line is entrusted to Kei Ninomiya, the acclaimed designer recognized for his distinctive Noir label, which has been an integral part of the Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market ecosystem for the past decade. This new \"DSM brand\" represents a bold step, diverging from the traditional multi-brand retail model to cultivate a unique fashion narrative.
Ninomiya expressed that his approach to designing for DSM was fundamentally distinct from his work on Noir. He aimed to encapsulate the core philosophy, identity, and intrinsic DNA of Dover Street Market itself. Recognizing DSM as a vibrant melting pot of brands and individuals from various nationalities and backgrounds, Ninomiya envisioned a collection that speaks to this diverse yet cohesive \"team with no name.\" The result is a collection steeped in the familiar symbolism of educational institutions, effectively creating a uniform that signifies membership in DSM's expansive global network of style and fashion enthusiasts. This deliberate choice underscores a sense of belonging and shared identity among those who resonate with the Dover Street Market ethos.
The collection itself is a thoughtful interpretation of classic academic attire, reinterpreted through a contemporary and conceptual lens. Among the standout pieces are poly-jersey jackets in deep maroon and black, reimagined as oversized, collarless school blazers. These garments are subtly embroidered with the outline of crests, one variant prominently featuring the elephant motif installed by Gucci at DSM's Ginza outpost in 2015, symbolizing the collection's central theme. This emblem extends to a range of “DSMU” branded athletic wear, including team sweats, track pants, t-shirts, and stadium jackets, alongside socks, further cementing the collegiate inspiration.
Complementing these sportswear elements are traditional academic staples such as school ties, knitted collegiate cardigans, and sweaters, as well as pleated skirts. A playful touch is added with jersey duffle coats, crafted in collaboration with the original duffle coat manufacturer, Gloverall, completing DSM’s novel uniform. This collection is not only available across Dover Street Market’s international network of stores—dubbed \"fashion campuses\"—but is also being offered wholesale in cities where DSM has yet to establish a physical presence, broadening its reach. The accompanying lookbook, still under wraps during its creation, features a diverse cast, including DSM retail staff and an extended circle of fashion luminaries like Carla Sozzani and ASAP Nast, reinforcing the community spirit at the heart of the brand.