



Emilia Wickstead's design philosophy often centers around a specific female artist, and for her Resort 2027 collection, she found her muse in the celebrated American painter Helen Frankenthaler. Known for her innovative soak-stain technique, Frankenthaler's fluid, watercolor-like canvases provided a rich palette and textural inspiration for Wickstead's latest creations. Beyond the art itself, Wickstead delved into Frankenthaler's personal style, imagining what the artist's contemporary wardrobe might entail.
The collection's most striking elements emerged within the eveningwear category. A captivating floor-length gown, adorned with a painterly floral motif, evoked the spontaneous splatters of Frankenthaler's studio, yet maintained an undeniable grace with its flowing fabric and subtle train. Dresses crafted from Wickstead's signature cloqué fabric appeared in opulent sapphire blue and delicate powder pink, featuring exaggerated, streaky embossed floral patterns. A standout piece was a mini dress and coordinating twin set, intricately embellished with layered 3D paillettes that formed sculptural blossoms on the shoulders and pockets, showcasing a blend of artistic flair and refined craftsmanship.
Despite the luxurious details, Wickstead expertly balances extravagance with wearability. Floral dresses printed on raw shantung silk mirrored the textured surfaces of Frankenthaler's unprimed canvases, conveying a sense of relaxed sophistication. This thoughtful touch underscored Wickstead's aim for an "effortless and free" aesthetic. Furthermore, her exploration of Frankenthaler's own wardrobe translated into charming 1950s-inspired chunky V-neck cable knit sweaters and grey check wools, exuding a desirable "schoolmistress chic." The collection also featured "artist's shirts"—roomy gabardine button-downs with pronounced collars and sleeves—which offered a cool, contemporary edge.
Wickstead's ability to design for herself, addressing the gaps in her own wardrobe, informs the practicality and versatility of her collections. With 18 years in the industry, she understands the importance of creating garments that are not only beautiful but also functional for the dynamic woman. Her designs cater to both grand evening affairs with elegant one-and-done dresses and everyday moments, providing sophisticated options that can be effortlessly worn and look impeccable, even when time is of the essence.