Loro Piana, a prominent brand under the LVMH conglomerate, has been placed under judicial administration for twelve months following grave revelations of labor exploitation. This intervention by a Milanese court stemmed from an incident where a worker was brutally attacked for seeking unpaid remuneration at a subcontracted facility. The investigation uncovered a grim reality of undocumented laborers working excessive hours for minimal wages, underscoring deep-seated issues within the high-end garment manufacturing sector.
The judicial action against Loro Piana arises from an investigation into a jacket workshop situated northwest of Milan. This facility, responsible for producing Loro Piana cashmere items, was found to employ ten Chinese migrant workers, five of whom lacked proper documentation. These individuals were reportedly subjected to grueling 90-hour work weeks, seven days a week, for a mere €4 per hour, and were even housed in illegal accommodations within the factory premises. The severity of these conditions prompted the immediate closure of the workshop and the arrest of its Chinese proprietor by the Carabinieri police department. The court's findings indicate a stark contrast between the brand's luxurious image and the harsh conditions endured by those contributing to its production.
In response to these findings, Loro Piana issued a statement acknowledging the court's notification regarding labor practices by its unapproved subcontractors. The brand asserted that it had no prior knowledge of these unauthorized workshops and their labor violations, claiming to have severed ties with the implicated supplier within 24 hours of being informed on May 20. Loro Piana emphasized its commitment to upholding human rights and ensuring compliance with regulations throughout its supply chain, publicly condemning any illegal practices. This situation casts a spotlight on the challenges of maintaining transparency and ethical standards across complex global supply chains in the luxury sector.
This incident with Loro Piana is not an isolated case but rather indicative of a broader pattern of labor exploitation affecting the luxury fashion industry. The Milan court has recently extended similar administrative measures to other renowned brands such as Armani, Dior, and Valentino, although their restrictions have since been lifted after demonstrating corrective actions. The discrepancy between the cost of production and the retail price of luxury goods is particularly stark; for instance, Loro Piana cashmere jackets retailing for over $5,000 involved production costs of approximately €118-€128 per jacket for its subcontractors. Moreover, previous reports highlighted the exploitation of indigenous communities, such as Vicuña wool herders in the Andes, who received minimal compensation for materials that contribute to products selling for thousands of dollars, often without ever seeing the finished luxury items.
The ongoing scrutiny and judicial interventions signal a growing global effort to address unethical labor practices, even within developed economies like Europe. While European governments are actively promoting ethical production through legislative measures, like France's recent bill targeting fast fashion, critics argue that these policies sometimes disproportionately affect non-European companies while granting leniency to domestic ones. Despite the luxury industry's substantial profits and high prices, the plight of many artisans and suppliers at the base of their supply chains remains dire. The increasing number of such cases from highly respected brands serves as a stark reminder of the systemic injustices present in the production processes that deliver opulent goods to consumers.